Cosmetic Facial Acupuncture

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA’s)

In the following article we will attempt to shed some light into these questions and give you all the information you need to make an informed choice.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids: Do they belong in natural skin care products?

What are they?

How are they useful to our skin?

Are they a natural ingredient in skin care?

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHA’s) are Fruit acids, which are weak organic acids derived from various sources such as, grapes, apples, sugar cane, maple, pineapple, papaya, willow bark, lemon, lime, sour milk, blackberries, yoghurt and cider, and play an important role in skin care.
Fruit acids are natural exfoliants that perform a number of functions at the level of the stratum corneum on the skin’s surface:

Loosen and dissolve dead cells from the skin’s surface

Help to regenerate new skin cells,

Aid in the control of acne, smooth rough dry skin, improve the texture of sun-damaged and aging skin and

Retain moisture, which leaves your skin healthy and vibrant.

Naturally contained AHA’s are basically a good thing, unfortunately, many companies are using concentrated extracts, or worse still, synthetically manufactured AHA’s or BHA’s (beta hydroxy acids), and that is not a good thing.

When scientists comes across a ‘new substance’, so to speak, they have a tendency to want to make it better than nature’s version… more concentrated for quicker results… and so on. Unfortunately, this usually brings with it side effects and sometimes actual physical damage.

A natural ingredient – just what exactly does that mean?

Does it mean it is a substance that nature created and it has been added to a product in order to make that product natural? No, a natural ingredient is an ingredient that is, where ever possible, present in it’s natural form, for example AHA’s can be extracted and then added to a product, thereby the maker of that product can claim it contains ‘Natural ingredients’. Or the AHA’s can be use in a product in the form of an extract of Papaya with all the other ingredients present in Papaya fruit. This is a more balanced set of ingredients that work together (synergistically) to achieve a desired effect, thus it is a truly natural ingredient.

Let me give you an example: Aspirin (a very commonly used pain killer) is derived from the bark of the white Willow tree. The substance or the active ingredient is called Salicylic acid, a BHA. This is the stuff that reduces pain. It is also the stuff that can cause Stomach ulcers….

Now, the herbal extract of the white Willow bark does not (or is much less likely to) cause Stomach ulcers. Why? Because the herbal extract contains many other ingredients that are contained in the bark, which the extraction process brings out. Some of these substances are mucilaginous (Porridge is mucilaginous) which means they are slippery and when taken internally, they cover the membrane of the Stomach (the lining) and prevent the salicylic acid from causing irritation or ulceration – clever, isn’t she, that Mother Nature woman?

Sometimes you will hear these additional ingredients referred to as “phyto-chemicals”. This is very current topic today with respect to Vitamins and other ‘natural’ supplements.

What does all this have to do with natural skin care? Well, as I have written before. Natural skin care is not necessarily natural and one could debate back and forth what ‘natural’ is, or what it should be. One thing is certain, natural skin care products should not contain any ‘un-natural’ ingredients, be they synthetically produced or in ‘purified / isolated form’. Natural should be as close as possible to the way it is found in nature.

That is not to say one should not use Vitamin E as a principal ingredient in a cream, but it should not be of a synthetically derived form. Wheat germ oil, for example, is very high in Vitamin E and contains many other phyto-chemicals, which are nourishing to the skin.

At Wildcrafted Herbal Products we choose to define natural as ‘the way nature created it’, so we prefer not to use isolated natural ingredients. Instead, we choose to use ingredients from plant extracts, essential oils, carrier oils and other extraction processes according to Naturopathic principles, which preserve the integrity of the plant or relevant plant parts.

I hope this clarifies some of the confusion that is propagated in the media about AHA’s and provides you with information you can use when next looking at ingredients on natural skincare products.

About the Author

Danny Siegenthaler is a doctor of traditional Chinese medicine and together with his wife Susan, a medical herbalist and Aromatherapist, they have created Natural Skin Care Products by Wildcrafted Herbal Products to share their 40 years of combined expertise with you

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© Wildcrafted Herbal Products Pty Ltd., 2009

Skin Care Routine

AHA-BHA Exfoliating Cleanser $41.08 AHA-BHA Exfoliating Cleanser by Murad for Unisex – 6.75 oz Exfol. Cleanser

AHA-BHA Acne Clearing Gel $51.48 AHA-BHA Acne Clearing Gel by Peter Thomas Roth for Unisex – 2 oz Acne Clearing Gel

AHA/BHA Exfoliating Cleanser $42.99 Women’s 200ml/6.75oz . An AHA/BHA exfoliating beauty cleanser Helps dissolve skin cell buildup Instantly polishes & softens your skin Visibly improves the quality of skin texture With licorice extract provides anti-irritant benefits Leaves skin feeling perfectly smooth & clear

Murad AHA/BHA Exfoliating Cleanser $35 Reveal younger skin. Murad AHA/BHA Exfoliating Cleanser serves to refine the skin and polish away the dullness and dehydration. It revitalizes the skin to leave a longlasting, healthy, natural glow….

Murad Aha/Bha Exfoliating Cleanser $35 Reveal younger skin. Murad AHA/BHA Exfoliating Cleanser serves to refine the skin and polish away the dullness and dehydration. It revitalizes the skin to leave a longlasting, healthy, natural glow….

AHA/BHA Acne Clearing Gel $53.99 Women’s 57ml/2oz . A deep pore clearing gel to treat & control acne blemishes Combines AHA with BHA to create synergistic action Penetrates into skin to clear up & prevent formation of blackheads acne Reduces appearance of fine lines wrinkles & other signs of aging Optimizes skin tone & evens out rough texture Makes skin velvety smooth stay young & healthy

Murad Cleanser, 200 ml AHA/BHA Exfoliating Cleanser for Women $24.97 An AHA/BHA exfoliating beauty cleanser,Helps dissolve skin cell buildup,Instantly polishes & softens your skin,

Murad Cleanser, 200ml/6.75oz AHA/BHA Exfoliating Cleanser for Women $39.5 An AHA/BHA exfoliating beauty cleanser,Helps dissolve skin cell buildup,Instantly polishes & softens your skin,

Murad AHA/BHA Exfoliating Cleanser 200ml/6.75oz $39.5 An AHA/BHA exfoliating beauty cleanser Helps dissolve skin cell buildup Instantly polishes & softens your skin Visibly improves the quality of skin texture With licorice extract provides anti-irritant benefits Leaves skin feeling perfectly smooth & clear

Peter Thomas Roth Aha/Bha Acne Gel $45 Peter Thomas Roth AHA/BHA Acne Clearing Gel Oilfree, fragrance free maximum strength acne medication with glycolic acid 10 and salicylic acid 2 for normal, oily, combination or problem skin types Directions Skin should be cleansed thoroughly. Apply a thin layer to entire affected area every other night, then gradually increase to once or twice daily or as directed by a doctor. If bothersome dryness or peeling occurs, reduce application to once a day or every other day….

B. Kamins Chemist AHA + BHA Gommage $34 All skins, except hyper-sensitive and pustular acne. A textured exfoliant which combines glycolic acid, lactic acid and salicylic acid in a creamy formula to sweep away dead cells, facilitate manual extraction and increase circulation.  To improve skin texture, stimulate cell renewal and diminish the thickness of the epidermis. • Removes dead cells in a gentle manner • Facilitates manual extractions • Helps erase imperfections • Helps refine pores • Reduces acne breakouts • Increases penetration of reparative serums and creams • Delivers a clearer complexion instantly Directions: Make sure skin is dry after cleansing. Apply AHA+BHA Gommage in a thick coat all over the face and neck. Avoid area close to eyes.  After approximately two minutes, begin gommage techniques, focusing on areas that are thick, dull and asphyxiated. Once gommage is completed, rinse with lukewarm water. Can be used once or twice a week. Follow with the Revitalizing Booster Concentrate. WARNING: Do not apply on open lesions. Should not be used with any other peeling/AHA+BHA treatment. Net Weight: 60 g/2 oz.

SkinMedica 15% AHA/BHA Cream $38 FOR ALL SKIN TYPES EXCEPT SENSITIVE SKIN This rejuvenating cream exfoliates, revitalizes, and protects with a combination of 15 percent alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids, plus antioxidants. BENEFITS: Improves skin texture, tone, and smoothness Helps to exfoliate dead cells from skin’s surface, revealing fresh, young cells Nourishes and protects skin from environmental damage with vitamins and antioxidants Directions: Apply twice daily to face, neck, and décolletage. A mild, temporary stinging sensation is normal. Sunburn alert: This product contains an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that may increase skin’s sensitivity to sunburn. Use a sunscreen and limit sun exposure while using this product and for a week following cessation of use. Warning: For external use only. Avoid contact with eyes. If contact occurs, rinse eyes thoroughly with water. Net Weight: 2 oz. Ingredients: Water, Vaccinium Myrtilius (Bilberry) Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Glycerin, Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane) Extract, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Peg-100 Stearate, Squalane, Dimethicone, Stearic Acid, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Fruit Extract, Acer Saccharum (Sugar Maple) Extract Althaea Officinalis (Marshmallow) Extract Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Rower Extract, Salicylic Acid, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E Acetate), Ascorbyl Palmitate (Vitamin C), Panthenol, Bisabolol, Xanthan Gum, Triethanolamine, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Ethyl paraben.

Peter Thomas Roth AHA/BHA Acne Clearing Gel $45 Peter Thomas Roth AHA/BHA Acne Clearing Gel is the perfect prevention and spot treatment in one. This oilfree deep pore cleansing gel will clear your skin of blackheads, whiteheads, and blemishes. Youre pores will be tighter and your skin smoother….

Murad AHA/BHA Esfoliante Tônico de limpeza 200ml/6.75oz $100 Tônico esfoliante com AHA/BHA Ajuda a dissolver células mortas acumuladas Suaviza e ilumina sua pele Melhora visivelmente a qualidade da textura da pele Com extrato de alcaçus possui propriedade antialérgicas Deixa a pele inteiramente limpa e macia

SkinMedica 15 AHA/BHA Cream $38 Alpha Hydroxy Acid combined with Beta Hydroxy Acid creates a profound exfoliation that removes dead skin cells effectively as it assists fresh, young cells to the surface of the skin. Added vitamins and antioxidants nourish and protect the skin from free radical damage. You will see improvement in texture, skin tone and a smoother appearance.Authorized by SkinMedica…

Skinmedica 15% Aha/Bha Cream $38 Alpha Hydroxy Acid combined with Beta Hydroxy Acid creates a profound exfoliation that removes dead skin cells effectively as it assists fresh, young cells to the surface of the skin. Added vitamins and antioxidants nourish and protect the skin from free radical damage. You will see improvement in texture, skin tone and a smoother appearance.Authorized by SkinMedica…

B. Kamins Chemist AHA BHA Daily Peel Pads $59 Finally, a way to keep skin youthful, smooth, and clear B. Kamins Chemist AHA BHA Daily Peel Pads (QTY 35) contains Alpha and Beta Hydroxy Acids to remove dead skin cells for a cleaner, clearer face. This formula helps minimize lines, wrinkles, and age spots to leave skin looking younger and more refereshed. The easy twostep process cleanses skin for better results and exfoliates for radiant, bright skin….

B. Kamins Chemist Aha Bha Daily Peel Pads $59 Finally, a way to keep skin youthful, smooth, and clear B. Kamins Chemist AHA BHA Daily Peel Pads (QTY 35) contains Alpha and Beta Hydroxy Acids to remove dead skin cells for a cleaner, clearer face. This formula helps minimize lines, wrinkles, and age spots to leave skin looking younger and more refereshed. The easy twostep process cleanses skin for better results and exfoliates for radiant, bright skin….

Peter Thomas Roth AHA/BHA Acne Clearing Gel 57ml/2oz $49.5 A deep pore clearing gel to treat & control acne blemishes Combines AHA with BHA to create synergistic action Penetrates into skin to clear up & prevent formation of blackheads acne Reduces appearance of fine lines wrinkles & other signs of aging Optimizes skin tone & evens out rough texture Makes skin velvety smooth stay young & healthy

Peter Thomas Roth Day Care, 57 ml AHA/BHA Acne Clearing Gel for Women $31.29 A deep pore clearing gel to treat & control acne blemishes,Combines AHA with BHA to create synergistic action,Penetrates into skin to clear up & prevent formation of blackheads, acne,

Peter Thomas Roth Day Care, 57ml/2oz AHA/BHA Acne Clearing Gel for Women $49.5 A deep pore clearing gel to treat & control acne blemishes,Combines AHA with BHA to create synergistic action,Penetrates into skin to clear up & prevent formation of blackheads, acne,

CamoCare Face Lift 12% AHA/BHA Daily Liquid Treatment 2 Fl Oz $20.95 CamoCare Face Lift 12% AHA/BHA Daily Liquid TreatmentFor younger-looking skin, apply for all skin types. This oil-free liquid therapy contains natural Alpha and Beta Hydroxy Acids that rapidly lift off dead cells, revealing healthier, younger-looking skin. Absorbs quickly and dries fast..

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